The most appropriate dish for an izakaya like Musha is one charred at a tableside grill. And the most interesting of those is the dried stingray. The translucent triangles of flesh initially eat like a too-tough jerky inexplicably plucked from the sea. But give the pieces some grilling and a dunk in the accompanying aioli [...]

Musha is your place

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES
On even the slowest weekday nights, Musha’s dining room is stacked shoulder-to-shoulder—groups twirl together little piles of udon at the restaurant’s communal table while smaller parties share stories and beers off in the quieter corners. Every time the door opens, the staff lets out a short shout then serves [...]