There are a number of ways to make a meal here (stewed pork feet, Taiwanese sausage, a platter of crispy tofu, noodle soups), but Formosan’s success is fully and completely indebted to its use of the iron skillet. Every sense is magnified because of this metal—sauces bubble with a hungry rhythm, and starches begin to [...]

Letting go at Formosan

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES
It starts with the menu, Formosan’s bilingual list of meats so long it leaves you susceptible to almost any suggestion. Then, after a quick pick, you wait, watching with an anxious appetite as steaming meals are sent to every corner of the dining room. Finally, it ends when a [...]