Posts Tagged ‘dinner’

LOTUS CHINESE EATERY

June 25, 2008

It takes about 20 minutes for the kitchen to ready an order of sesame bread, but when the bread ships out with slices spilling off the plate, you know the wait was worth it. Every batch is afforded the option of having green onions kneaded into the dough (a must for more flavor), but the [...]

LONG BEACH PIZZA COMPANY

June 25, 2008

This is not your Thinking Man’s Pizza—no corn toppings, no clay ovens—just dough, sauce, cheese and your fixings. But that’s not to say it isn’t good. From the Pesto Pizza to the old stand-by Hawaiian, Long Beach Pizza Company aims for satisfaction over surprise. But one topping listed on the pizza menu does stand out: [...]

PUPUSERIA SAN SIVAR

June 25, 2008

What makes Pupusería San Sivar’s pupusas remarkable isn’t just variety—it’s that each one fluffs up in the same style as a flour tortilla, lightened to the point that they might as well be injected with air. It’s with that puffed-up edge that the pupusas are able to fare so well as a meal of their [...]

RENU NAKORN

June 25, 2008

If ever there was a dish that actually ate with all the synesthetic flash usually attributed to excellence (ingredients as bright as the day, flavors that blend together like colors), it would be Renu Nakorn’s nam kao tod. The plate is a mix of half-moons of Issan sausage (which isn’t far off from a Louisiana [...]

MANGIA-MANGIA

June 16, 2008

Down deep on Mangia-Mangia’s menu is the restaurant’s Sicilian training, represented best by its bucatini. Bucatini is long, spaghetti-like pasta, the difference between the two being that bucatini noodles are actually tubes, thin little cylinders that fatten up to the size of pipe cleaners. But the bucatini is just an accent here—the dish belongs to [...]

JOHNNY REBS’

June 16, 2008

Nothing out of the restaurant’s country kitchen satisfies home-cooked cravings more than its ribs. The baby back pork ribs are perhaps the most pleasing of the bunch, colored such a potent pink from slow smoking that the meat almost seems unnatural. The beef ribs, however, are just as good, trading in the pork’s pink streaks [...]

HONDURAS KITCHEN

June 16, 2008

Honduars Kitchen keeps conch on the menu for more native tastes, but the restaurant’s pollo frito is excellent, too—a few lightly fried hunks topped with chismol, a fresh salsa familiar to fans of pico de gallo. On the side is a hearty slop of beans and some rice. You get your choice for a third [...]

IZAKAYA ZERO

June 9, 2008

Every plate is a small one at Izakaya Zero, but some are more suited to a start than others. And for the best possible beginning there’s the okonomiyaki, a Japanese-style pancake loaded with octopus, pork, cabbage, green onion, ginger and topped with scribbles of citrus aioli and tonkatsu sauce. But it’s the heartier dishes that [...]

MOSCOW DELI

May 31, 2008

What makes Moscow Deli the most worthwhile is its fresh foodstuffs. For the obvious entrée, order the pirozhki, which are baked to a golden brown and stuffed with chicken. Unlike the Polish-style pierogi, the pirozhki benefit here from the addition of yeast in the dough, which lightens the football-shaped puffs to dinner-roll-like levels. For possibly [...]

TOKO RAME

May 31, 2008

To get into Toko Rame’s Indonesian state of mind, the best bet is the nasi bungkus. The dish is fitted for on-the-go appetites: rice, chicken, beef rendang, tofu and a hardboiled egg all piled inside banana leaves and wrapped up for what’s close to pocket-like portability. But the miracle of nasi bungkus isn’t just in [...]

 

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