Lily Bakery’s inexpensive Vietnamese eats

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES
When a foreign food assimilates its way into the national diet, it tends to devolve, its culinary cachet degraded until it becomes an oversimplified version of itself. It happened with the taco (sprinkled with shredded lettuce and cheddar cheese until it became unrecognizable), and it happened with teriyaki [...]