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Try as some folks might to apply the “You seen one monkey . . . ” axiom to Mexican food, simply playing around with the same basic ingredients—tortillas, beans, cheese, cabbage, etc., etc.—in one kitchen as another does not guarantee you identical results. This is a beautiful thing—why, it’s the very foundation for our debates about Holé Molé versus Taquería la Mexicana, or in less pressing terms, Del Taco versus Taco Bell. In the case of the latter discourse, I’ve always found myself on the side of Del, willing to forgo Taco Bell’s airy cinnamon twists for my beloved chicken Tacos del Carbon. And during a recent pit stop at a Del Taco drive thru, I discovered something of a revelation—and not just in fast food terms. At less than $2 per taco, the crispy fish taco ditches the Del Taco qualifier. Place one next to a comparable $6 or $7 fish taco plate from your favorite sit-down restaurant and you’d be surprised at how Del’s fillet crackles beneath your bite, joining shreds of cabbage and sliced tomatoes and onions—plus the “secret sauce”—for a chew that rivals many an esteemed fish taco. Of course, this isn’t your battered Baja fish taco (Pike, you’re still tops in my book), and the price is low for a reason—you’ll be finished in a bite or two (three if you’re lucky). But to break up a monotonous car journey that’s normally marked by even more tiresome bean and cheese burritos? There’s no debate: This is your winner.

DEL TACO 3190 E PACIFIC COAST HWY AND 2201 PALO VERDE AVE | LONG BEACH | DELTACO.COM

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