Discover the true meaning of mole (and so much more) at Oaxaca Mío

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES

My first experience with mole sauce was akin to an early sexual encounter (no, not like that . . . ): Both were somewhat foreign, kind of complex, extremely exciting, and ultimately intoxicating. And, looking back, I realize I didn’t know what I was doing—with the mole, I mean.

For those unfamiliar, mole (pronounced MOE-lay) is a Mexican sauce often made from chocolate and dried chiles and served with chicken. My first mole was a sickeningly sweet concoction that seemed better suited to a cold glass of milk. Still, I happily slathered it on everything. Over the years, I’ve sampled other moles—some sweeter, some spicier—but all variations on that same motif. Little did I know how little I really knew.

There are seven basic types of mole, each with hundreds of variations. Some have up to 30 ingredients—almonds, pecans, raisins, capers, cinnamon sticks, olives, etc. The sauce a has royal lineage, dating back to a chocolate-flavored concoction served to Aztec ruler Moctezuma. And the truly great moles come from Oaxaca, a southern Mexican state with a complex culinary tradition. Closer to home, there’s Oaxaca Mío.

Sandwiched between a bustling Vietnamese restaurant and a grocery store painted purple and gold (Go Lakers!) at 10th and Orange, Oaxaca Mío is a new addition to Long Beach’s crowded Mexican food scene. While Oaxaca Mío offers a selection of tacos and burritos, it’s really dedicated to the unique food of Oaxaca—starting, naturally, with mole.

On a recent Friday night, the wonderful staff at Oaxaca Mio graciously rearranged their small restaurant to accommodate our party of 11—including three young children—and brought us a complimentary mole sampler. Oaxaca Mío serves four of the seven traditional moles. Each is prepared from scratch on site in small batches and allowed to age for several days. Their mole negro (black), the most common mole, is a wonderfully semisweet, mildly spicy mixture of Oaxacan chocolate, nuts and dried chiles—great for mole first-timers and veterans alike. The mole coloradito (red) has a definite delayed kick. (“Your face is soooo red!” my wife points out.) The mole verde (green) is a potent mix of parsley, cloves, garlic, and green chiles. Most interesting of all is the mole amarillo (yellow), with its chowder-like consistency and flavoring of hierba santa (like cilantro, only spicier).

As entrées, each mole is served with a choice of chicken or pork (chicken only for the negro) and rice. The mole negro arrives as two tender chicken legs drowning (in a good way) in rich sauce, while the soupier mole verde is served like an Asian-style rice bowl.

But there’s more to Oaxacan cuisine—and Oaxaca Mío—than mole. Their empanadas are the size of a catcher’s mitt and stuffed with such exotic fillings as squash blossoms or a smooth corn truffle. Meat ’n’ potatoes types should try the cecina oaxaqueño, a platter of thinly sliced pork slathered in chile paste and served with rice, beans and salad. (Wait, I lied—no potatoes.)

During our visit, I opted for another Oaxacan specialty, the tlayuda. Though it feels uncouth to call it a “Mexican pizza,” that’s essentially what it is: a crisp flour tortilla spread on a pizza pan and covered in a thin layer of asiento (spiced pork fat) and black bean paste, then sprinkled with creamy Oaxacan string cheese; shredded cabbage; sliced tomato and avocado; and a choice of sliced beef, spicy pork, lumps of chorizo, or all three. With so many wonderful flavors and textures in one dish, the tlayuda eats like a multi-course meal and is a must-have.

Feeling like I played it safe with my entrée (when a menu contains “marinated pork feet,” everything else seems safe), I ordered a michelada, a Bloody Mary-like concoction of beer, Clamato, cayenne pepper and lime. After my first few gee-this-ain’t-bad sips, it starts to taste like, well, a spicy, briny beer. Stick with a plain Negra Modelo, or the milky horchata, nicely garnished with cubed cantaloupe.

More than just a wonderful, down-to-earth dining experience, a visit to Oaxaca Mío is a learning experience. You learn the real meaning of mole, and the diversity of one of Mexico’s great cuisines. You learn about Oaxaca itself, thanks to the beautiful photo collages and large, hand-painted tin owls (a traditional Oaxacan symbol) on the bright orange walls. You might even learn that another Oaxacan specialty, chapulines—or fried grasshoppers—are pretty good. In fact, they look and taste like salty, crushed red pepper—until you find a leg.

OAXACA MÍO 1169 E 10TH ST | LONG BEACH 90804 | 562.599.7212 | FOOD FOR TWO $15-25 | BEER, WINE

Tags: Long Beach, mexican, mole, oaxaca mio