To some, the Gimlet is bound to seem pedestrian: Usually just a mix of gin and sweetened lime juice—and sometimes soda water and a lime wedge—the cocktail can lack a certain entertainment factor found in other, -ini-ier drinks. But the Gimlet is still a sexy swirl of flavors—and I say this not only because it’s a popular call on Mad Men. The sweet citrus renders the gin even more clean and crisp, leaving faint traces of breezy booze long after last call. Then again, if you make it to last call downing Gimlets, I’d dare to say you’ve got it wrong. This isn’t a Gents-with-a-capital-G-only drink—knowledge of shrimp forks and compote spoons not required—but it’s not your frat favorite Bud Lite, either. You can throw back a few rounds, sure, but respect the drink. It’s old, like gramps (or maybe pa), and descends from simpler times (you know, hats and fitted shirts and lean ties) when cocktails would signal the end of the work day, not welcome the wee hours of today. So drink it slow and keep it cool, baby—especially if you’re at a classy place like the bar at the spacious (but not stuffy) Madison, where bow-tied bartender Alex will gladly suggest a gin and deliver your Gimlet with a curl of lemon zest and a friendly exchange. Afterward, catch a cab home if it’s convenient—this is Long Beach, not Mad Men, yes, but maybe your brain won’t be the wiser. Your taste buds sure won’t.

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Tags: Drink of the Week, gimlet, Long Beach, mad men, the madison