Local food writer Russ Parsons knows how to pick ‘em

PHOTO by MATT FUKUSHIMA

Like many of us who ride to and from our day jobs on the Passport, I usually have my nose stuck in a book. But it wasn’t until I picked up Wrigley resident Russ Parsons’ How to Pick a Peach: The Search for Flavor From Farm to Table that anyone felt compelled to ask me what the heck I was reading. Young and old, men and women wanted to know what the book was all about. When I told them it was actually about how to choose the best fruits and vegetables for your recipes, they were even more fascinated. Everyone, it seems, could use more flavor.

Food is Parsons’ passion, and he’s also a big fan of Long Beach, his adopted hometown. A food and wine columnist for the Los Angeles Times, Parsons prefers “simple food done well.” Here’s where Parsons finds his flavor, and where he heads once he’s full:

Jongewaard’s Bake ‘N Broil This unpretentious eatery in Bixby Knolls almost always has a wait, and for a very good reason: the food is great. It masters Parsons’ favorite style of “simple food done well” and the employees even bake all of the restaurant’s cakes, pies and to-die-for coffee cake—not to mention make the pancake batter. Parsons is also pretty sure Bake ‘N Broil is the only restaurant in the city to actually roll out its own pie crusts. He thinks their southern food (chicken fried steak, biscuits and gravy) is great, but his personal favorites are the killer red velvet cupcakes.

3697 Atlantic Ave | Long Beach 90807 | 562.595.0396

Taco Loco #3 Notes Parsons, “This place is my favorite taco stand in Los Angeles. The menu is about what you’d expect: carnitas, carne asada, pollo . . . but they cook everything so carefully, and then they pair it with the appropriate salsas and, best of all, handmade tortillas. The tripas are unbelievable. They braise them to get them tender, then sizzle them on the grill to crisp them up. For a tripe-lover, it’s something worthy of a three-star restaurant.”

1465 Magnolia Ave (between Anaheim and PCH) | Long Beach 90813 | 562.437.6228

Sunday Farmers’ Market in the Marina Though it’s much smaller than the meandering affair the famous Santa Monica Farmers’ Market has turned into, our very own Farmers’ Market in the Marina can hold its head up high, according to Parsons. He especially likes the Weiser Family Farm stand, where you can find the best melons and potatoes, and Pete Siracusa’s fresh fish truck. Just know in advance: the fish truck is so popular there’s always a line.

Alamitos Bay Marina East | Marina Dr, south of E Second St | Long Beach 90802 | Sun 9am-2pm

The Los Angeles River When asked about one of his favorite places to walk, Parsons is quick to answer: “The Los Angeles River, which turns from culvert to a river a couple blocks from my house. In the winter, we’ve counted as many as a dozen Great Blue herons at one time, plus dozens of egrets and hundreds of other waterfowl. An amazing treat.”

Tags: bake n broil, best of, Food, LA Times, russ parsons