It’s not exactly culinary subterfuge, but nothing at Vegi Wokery is quite what it seems. That’s because Vegi Wokery specializes in vegetarian and vegan interpretations of classic Chinese dishes, with probably the most unique plate being the vegi-Peking duck. What’s usually a brutally fattening dish (duck skin literally bathed in oil) is completely transformed here, as slices of soy-based duck are paired with plum sauce, a pile of broccoli, a strange sprinkling of cilantro and a row of steamed buns in which to stuff the faux-duck. The cilantro doesn’t fit with the dish, but scrape it off and it’s great from there: a faintly sweet meal worthy of whatever excess there is at Vegi Wokery. You can’t compare the dish to its fowl-based origins, but as an alternative it’s excellent.

VEGI WOKERY 11329 183RD ST | CERRITOS 90703 | 562.809.3928 | VEGIWOKERY.COM | OPEN MON-SAT 11:30AM-2:30PM, 4:30-9PM | FOOD FOR TWO, $20-35

Tags: cerritos, chinese, dinner, lunch, vegetarian