Shenandoah at the Arbor has the same menu as the original Shenandoah, so let’s just get right to the food. It’s great—and yes, yes, they still have the fritters. The brisket is still tender enough to cut with a fork. Suffused with barbecue sauce, the meat had just enough tang; and when paired on the fork with the mashed potatoes and gravy, the hearty back-and-forth of sharp and soft made a body feel like he should commence to doing whatever it is men did when they were men.

SHENANDOAH AT THE ARBOR 10631 LOS ALAMITOS BLVD | LOS ALAMITOS 90720 | 562.431.1990 | OPEN FOR LUNCH MON-SAT 11-3 | DINNER EVERY DAY 5-9 | DINNER FOR TWO, $50-70

Tags: american, dinner, los alamitos, southern