Like its décor, Le Yen’s food sticks to what it has always done best: Cantonese-inspired dishes that, over the years, have taken as much from American cuisine as Chinese. A great mainstay is Le Yen’s excellent moo shu pork, a dish that has suffered a fading fate similar to that of egg foo young. It begins as a jumble of pork, cabbage, wood-ear mushrooms, carrots and onions. Then it’s packed hot into Le Yen’s nearly translucent wraps and paired with hoisin sauce. Some lesser Chinese places substitute tortillas for the wraps, but Le Yen keeps with tradition—and it’s good.

LE YEN 4140 ATLANTIC AVE | LONG BEACH 90807 | 562.424.2817 | FOOD FOR TWO, $20-30 | BEER, WINE

Tags: chinese, dinner, Long Beach, lunch