The Daily Briefing

A REAL MIXOLOGIST

 

A toast to the late Jerry Thomas

People seem so much more interesting when you drink; and if you’re smart, you know it’s partly because you’re drinking–and partly because they’re just more interesting.

When you drink, everyone is someone like Jerry Thomas, the traveler/art collector/Beau Brummel–and storied 19th-century bartender who’s the subject of “Imbibe!” by author David Wondrich–and this New York Times piece.

Thomas, according to the Times, almost singlehandedly created what we now consider cocktails. Before him, mixed drinks were simple things like slings and toddies–booze plus a little sugar, maybe warmed up, with cinnamon on top.

After Thomas, they were complicated. Among other things, they were on fire; his signature drink was something called the Blue Blazer–mixed by pouring it glass to glass while it was lit. And they were poised to be transformed again, from what we think of as antique cocktails into what we think of as classic cocktails–which is dry martinis, maybe gin and tonics, and a Manhattan or two.

Thomas was the bridge between the Paleozoic drinks (pond water/extra scum) and beverages like the old 50-50 martini, which was gin–and only about half. The rest was vermouth with a dash of orange bitters, and there wasn’t a vodka to be found. Not yet.

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