Burgers and barbecue at Fronk’s

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES

Fronk’s in Bellflower has the kind of name that causes a double-take, an oddity that leads to the same brand of pronunciation-based humor that made up about half of Young Frankenstein. And Fronk’s is well prepared for those very jokes. Indeed, it’s difficult even to raise an eyebrow at the restaurant when there’s the self-effacing Fronken-burger, a half-pound Angus beef patty topped with beer-battered onion rings, maple bacon, a melted mass of Monterey Jack, lettuce, tomato and a smear of chipotle ranch. It’s a formidable creation, and only one of many.

The young restaurant belongs to chef-owner Jamie Fronk, who quickly made a mark on the neighborhood with his meaty menu of barbecue and burgers. That splash is evident in the ardent advocates who eat at Fronk’s: firefighters, electricians, families, young couples and anyone else with an abundance of hunger. It’s a cultural cross-section devoted enough to take part in the restaurant’s global photo campaign, in which customers are encouraged to immortalize their love of Fronk’s around the world. The Potholder-like program is apparently a hit: Fronk’s has already traveled in spirit to Machu Picchu.

Conceptually, Fronk’s is in good company. The little burger-and-barbecue restaurant isn’t far off from Bellflower neighbor Big Mike’s. Though the latter is more about raw power (just try taking on the signature Big Mike burger that pairs a fat, hand-formed patty with a grilled hot link), Fronk’s offers plenty to satisfy bulging American appetites.

The Little Piggy, a burger piled high with pulled pork and cole slaw, seems to descend from the very same gluttonous barbecue-meets-burger tradition as the creations at Big Mike’s. There’s also a great maple bacon cheeseburger and the even greater Bull burger, essentially the maple bacon cheeseburger capped with a fried egg. There are eight burgers in all, each good enough to earn a place in your regular rotation.

Sandwiches follow a similar path. There are eight options here, as well, most of which are simply variations on standard chicken sandwiches, though there is also a fish sandwich and garden burger. The Cajun chicken melt is the restaurant’s signature: blackened boneless chicken breast plus lettuce, tomato, a smear of mayo and roasted red peppers.

But the pulled pork sandwich is the true pride of Fronk’s. As expected, it’s a hefty thing, a single meal that could conceivably alter your appetite for over a day. Ultimately, though, the pulled pork is just a bit too stringy compared to the luscious hunks of meat that spill out of the sandwiches at local pulled pork champion Porky’s BBQ.

Fronk’s nevertheless serves fine barbecue. Ribs are predictably filling, lacquered with a thick layer of the restaurant’s barbecue sauce. But they’re not slow-smoked—they’re grilled. That’s heresy to barbecue aficionados, yet it’s a method that produces tender ribs regardless.

Grilled chicken-breast skewers are a nice, relatively lighter option. Huge hunks of chicken are threaded onto skewers and served blackened or coated in either barbecue or citrus-Dijon sauces. As with all houses of meat, Fronk’s doesn’t pay much attention to salads and the like. The restaurant does offer some greenery, but most offerings simply swap toppings and dressings.

Fronk’s, with all of its plain and simple cooking, doesn’t deliver anything unexpected. But in the realm of neighborhood restaurants, that’s as desirable a trait as any. Like Big Mike’s, Fronk’s is arguably a restaurant more committed to size and heft than anything else. Accordingly, portion control isn’t much of a consideration here. Your caloric intake is completely up to the power of your personal restraint.

Still hungry? Visit Miles for more at eatfoodwith.me.

FRONK’S 9260 ALONDRA BLVD • BELLFLOWER 90706 • 562.804.2222 • OPEN TUES-SAT 11AM-9PM AND SUN NOON-9PM • FOOD FOR TWO $15-35 • EATATFRONKS.COM

Tags: barbecue, bellflower, burgers, Food, fronk's, Restaurants