K.C. Branaghan’s gets Irish food right

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES

Often lost among comfort cuisine that’s perhaps easier to come by (your baked mac and cheeses, chicken fried rices, Meat Lover’s Pizzas and the like), Irish meals work best when you’ve got nothing left in you—no fight and no food, though a pint of Guinness is surely okay. Come tired, come hungry and—if you find the right pub—you’ll leave patched up and laughing. That’s Irish hospitality for you.

But despite our many, many, many Irish pubs here in Southern California, most fail when it comes to translating Irish pub culture—the look, the feel and especially the food. Oh, they do Irish-American just fine—the more Notre Dame, the better; forget that the “Fighting Irish” originally referred to terriers, not our friends across the Atlantic—but if authenticity is your aim, you’d likely do just as well by firing up your Crock-Pot, snagging a bottle of Jameson, and throwing some Christy Moore on in the background.

The best Irish pubs out here are the ones that keep it simple—Molly Bloom’s in San Clemente is the all-time winner in my book—but Naples newcomer K.C. Branaghan’s (formerly Limericks) stands to slide in at a still-excellent No. 2. Those who loved Limericks for its easy pace and ample space will find both of these intact at K.C. Branaghan’s, though the service and decor have been noticeably fine-tuned (see: the fully remodeled, airy interior, painted in soft browns, tans and golds; the uniformed, full wait staff, fronted by man of the house George Sabbagh). However, those who were . . . let’s say, underwhelmed . . . by Limericks’ food now have a reason to check out the place, too.

K.C. Branaghan’s serves traditional pub grub like burgers, including turkey and veggie ($8.95-$9.95); sandwiches, from the obligatory corned beef to a turkey club and roasted turkey sandwich ($8.95-$10.95); and plenty of appetizers, too, erring on the lighter side with a clams and mussels dish for $13.95 and a cheese and meats platter for $12.95 (hot wings, sausage rolls, baked potatoes and onion rings also available, $6.75-$10.50). But it’s with what the pub dubs “Traditional Irish Fayre” that the kitchen shines most.

It is my opinion that the best Irish meals are filling, yet light enough to welcome another pint of beer. To this end, K.C. Branaghan’s traditional dishes—the Irish beef stew, the fish ‘n’ chips, the shepherds pie—all succeed (corned beef and cabbage and “bangers and champ,” or sausage and mashed potatoes, are on the menu, too; $11.95-$13.95). The batter on the fish (made with a black and tan mix) holds up without getting soggy; the lamb mixed in with the meat on the shepherds pie adds a tasty subtle gaminess; and the Guinness stew, served with a dollop of mashed potatoes in the middle, is chunky yet reserved in its rationing of carrots and potatoes—plus the meat is so nicely done it practically leaps onto your fork.

And if you are loathe to leave anything behind on your plate, there are the boxty dishes, serving up elements from the traditional menu (shepherds pie, stew, corned beef or a bacon and cheese dish) wrapped in a fluffy yet sturdy potato pancake, all the better for wiping the plate clean.

But there is a final item on the menu that sold me on K.C. Branaghan’s: the curry chips. Just like some say the mark of a sushi chef is the quality and texture of his tamago, the standard by which I judge any Irish pub is its french fries (aka “chips”) and curry (which in Ireland can be found dumped over thick fries at nearly every chip joint). Its flavor is precise: sweet, well-seasoned and bright yellow (even the just-add-water curries in Ireland taste like it). This certainly isn’t your take-out menu curry—a friend said it was most reminiscent of Japanese curry—but trust me when I say K.C. Branaghan’s gets it right. Dip a fry in the curry and chase it with a gulp of Guinness. Then, sit back and relax. Leave the worrying (and your hunger) out on Second Street—you’re on pub time now.

K.C. BRANAGHAN’S 5734 E SECOND ST | LONG BEACH 90803 | 562.434.3600 |‎ KCBRANAGHANS.COM | OPEN DAILY 11AM-MIDNIGHT | FOOD FOR TWO $20-$40

Tags: curry fries, Food, irish, k.c. branaghan's, Long Beach, pub