Escape Long Beach–to San Pedro–at 22nd Street Landing

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES

Adjacent to the parking lot entrance at 22nd Street Landing is a whale-shaped sign with a toothy smile, beckoning you to “Whale Watch Here” while an arrow guides you into the lot. I happened by this on my way out of the Landing’s Seafood Grill & Bar and paused, recalling the early-morning whale watching excursions from my childhood. It’s cute, the sign, standing in juxtaposition with the restaurant’s bland beige exterior and in certain kitschy contrast to its classic wood-and-brass interior. The sign also (along with the memories) made for a pleasant end to a relaxed, filling seafood dinner.

Key to that last sentence? Pleasant and relaxed. Fed up with the heat and smoke one night during our recent fires, I plotted an escape from Long Beach to San Pedro, a destination my fuzzy logic had dictated would be far less smoky and much cooler. In reality, the parking lot at Cabrillo Marina simply covered up the ashy air with the briny scent of the ocean—the kind of smell that kicks your olfactory senses into overdrive, launching signals to your tummy that you’re close to good, fresh fish.

Overlooking the marina, the restaurant (air-conditioned and spacious, with lots of windows) aims for a Fisherman’s Wharf feel and achieves it. Known for its sunset views (and raved about on Yelp.com for its affordable California seafood cioppino), I arrived at 22nd Street Landing in the mood for fish and chips—and promptly changed my mind upon seeing grilled shrimp skewers on the menu. I ordered a plate, with new potatoes, vegetables and a starter cup of lobster bisque. My friend decided on Atlantic salmon lightly brushed with olive oil and grilled over applewood, paired with garlic mashed potatoes and clam chowder. No drinks—though there is a full bar, and Fat Tire and Newcastle were tempting draft options—because, well, laundry day was coming up.

The soups, when they arrived, were at once delicious and confusing. I’d like to think that I’m relatively well-acquainted with the clam chowders of our region, but here the chowder was rather light by comparison—chunks of potatoes and clams were there, yes, but the actual soup base was thinner—not watered-down, just thinner. It made for a nice change, especially since the serving was sized right for a starter.

In contrast, my lobster bisque was on the thicker end of the soup spectrum. Though I’m not as familiar with lobster bisque, this seemed more like a chowder: hearty, a bit chunky, the kind of soup that leaves a trail behind as it coats your throat. I’ll probably go with the chowder next time (old reliable) but the bisque was fantastic. You’d do well to order a bowl with a small salad for lunch.

As for the main courses, my friend found the salmon delightful: a sturdy slice of fish crisped ever-so-gently and accompanied by a tangy, creamy dipping sauce. His potatoes were even better: a garlicky pillow that had probably been whipped as well as mashed. So. Good. (And great when partnered with a bite of the carrots, green beans and broccoli that also came on the plate.) My shrimp were equally awesome: two large skewers of masterfully grilled shrimp, blackened just so, served with salted-and-peppered red potatoes that were topped off with a faint dash of rosemary. Full from the lobster bisque (and, it should be noted, a few cheese-and-oregano-baked breadsticks) the shrimp, potatoes and vegetables were ideal: I ate a skewer, focused on the veggies, and saved the rest for lunch the next day (it reheated well).

This being my first visit to 22nd Street Landing, I have no shareable stories about the place or even relatable anecdotes about the area—though I plan on building up a few—so I can only offer this experience. But I can recommend it with confidence, and I definitely plan on returning—not just for the chowder, but maybe some whale watching, too.

22ND STREET LANDING SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR 141 W 22ND ST | STE A | SAN PEDRO 90731 | 310.548.4400 | 22NDSTLANDINGRESTAURANT.COM | DINNER FOR TWO, $30-70, DRINKS EXCLUDED | FULL BAR | CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED

Tags: 22nd street landing, garlicky pillows, San Pedro, seafood, shrimp, whale watching