Kafe Neo finds itself

PHOTO by ROSHEILA ROBLES

There are many reasons to love the intersection of Fourth Street and Temple Avenue: In addition to being a generally wise (and safe) destination for Bluff Heights residents to point cabbies toward at the end of a long night—hey, every dollar counts—there’s also the handmade veggie burgers at Shillelagh, the Cuban sandwiches at 212 Bistro (formerly the Hot Spot) and Bob, the surly-seeming-but-not bartender at O’Connell’s. Even the pho at Cafe NuArt has saved me during more than one pho-craving-crisis. Blocks away from Retro Row and a hefty hike from most popular local eateries, the area is on most days the best-kept food/drink/meet-up secret in the city—and, it seems, will continue to be with the addition of much-anticipated newcomer Kafe Neo.

Look beyond Kafe Neo’s somewhat unfortunate selection of exterior paint (a dull shade of yellow that most will agree is off-putting), bizarre interior design choices (three flat screen televisions in a space smaller than some studio apartments; also, on three occasions, I’ve endured a Muzak soundtrack consisting of one song looped every 35 seconds) and utterly confusing ordering process (sometimes, you order at the bar, sometimes you are seated) and you’ll find Kafe Neo in step with most of its surroundings. Settling in at an intersection where fraternity row meets well-settled cool kids of all ages does not make for an easy-to-please demographic (hungry, poor students versus health-conscious, pro-vegetable dieters with some version of an expendable income) but the restaurant’s American/Greek menu manages to have at least one dish that will please you, no matter where you fall.

For the frat boys, there is the obligatory Angus beef burger ($7) or a grilled cheese sandwich (for $6—tax included on all items, by the way); cramming sorority sisters will no doubt appreciate the Pita Pizza for study parties. The more gourmet among us will enjoy the $11 shrimp skewer plate (careful, these buttery, grilled puppies are huge) which comes with a small Greek salad, satisfying rice pilaf, a tangy and creamy tzatziki and pita bread; or the pita sandwich—my favorite is the grilled veggies pita, with charred-just-right squash, peppers, zucchini and onions.

But whether you live with six other dudes or your wife of 20 years, definitely order the beautiful pita and dips appetizer to start. Served on a large plate lightly drizzled with olive oil, the offering of red-pepper-and-feta “fire feta,” straightforward but pleasing hummus, the aforementioned tzatziki, an unbeatable roasted red pepper dip and a diced olive mixture, plus a hefty serving of pita bread, is a meal for one in and of itself, and easily the best on the menu.

Breakfast, however, in the two times I’ve visited since the restaurant’s opening last month, tends to be more hit-or-miss. It’s a bit unfair to harshly judge a place so soon after opening, but I was underwhelmed by both the pita egg sandwich with cheddar and ham (exactly as it sounds: a pita overflowing with a scrambled egg pancake—really, all one piece and flat—covered with melted cheddar and a thin deli-sandwich-like slice of cooked ham) and the make-your-own omelet (I ordered feta, Greek sausage and red peppers, all of which came served side by side—not mixed together—inside a folded-over scrambled egg pancake—not within the scrambled mixture, just on top and inside). At the very least, I would have preferred if there had not been olive oil drizzled on the plate carrying the wrapped-in-foil pita egg sandwich (my hands were oily before I could even fully unwrap it) or if I’d been alerted that the Greek sausage would taste like maple sausage, as was the case in the omelet I ordered—not the most ideal pairing with red pepper and feta.

Still, the coffee is very, very good and the food, by and large, leaves you feeling full in the best way, the way only fresh, nutritious ingredients can. (Also, the salt-and-peppery breakfast potatoes, thinly sliced and coated with olive oil, could potentially become 2008’s polenta potatoes—no offense, Starling.) I’ll be back, and you will be too—and not just because there aren’t any outside tables available at Shillelagh. In time—a short time, likely—I’m sure Kafe Neo will work out these kinks, just like everyone else in the neighborhood. Until then, we dip.

KAFE NEO 2800 E FOURTH ST | LONG BEACH 90814 | 562.987.1210 | KAFENEOLB.COM | FOOD FOR TWO, $10-30 | CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED | BEER AND WINE SOON!

Tags: BLUFF HEIGHTS, GOOD FOOD, kafe neo, Long Beach